Written and researched by Kevin Wright©2015
As compared with present consumption, the colonial diet included relatively little fresh meat. Families reared swine and turkeys in great numbers and those destined for winter market were fenced in an appropriate place at the lower end of the garden. Pork was preferred over beef, except among Jewish colonists whose religious observance proscribed its consumption. Pigs generously fattened on forest mast, field pumpkins, buckwheat, and a sweet mash of skimmed milk and bran.
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Fresh meat was most abundantly available in late November when farmers thinned their herds, determining what cattle might be sheltered and fed over winter. As much fresh meat as possible was consumed with the fruits of the harvest, explaining the timing of our traditional Thanksgiving feast. Surplus livestock either walked to market on hoof or were butchered. It was at this season, in late November or early December, when mud roads were frozen and thus passable, farmers and drovers customarily made their “Big Trip” to city market, clogging highways and tavern yards en route with their cattle. They also purchased their goods of city merchants on such occasions. In one well known example, as many as a hundred farmers, coming from Sussex County and beyond, might put up for the night in hotels near the Red Mill on the Saddle River in Paramus, resting en route to city markets. Indeed, in times before the railroad made the “Big Trip” obsolete, several taverns prospered along Paramus Road. The most popular was Polly Brevoort’s hotel, which stood on the west side of the Saddle River in Fair Lawn, where a solitary fiddler named Yean Moore provided entertainment for the old-time dances, when a row of candles illuminated the balconies of the dance-hall.
With winter’s onset, neighbors joined together in employing a “sticker” to expertly butcher fattened hogs. Families set to work before daylight, lighting fires to heat great cauldrons of water for scalding “stuck” hogs to loosen the bristles. After scraping on a table, dressed carcasses were hung on a scaffold by the heels for butchering. Women generally prepared choice cuts for a community dinner. On this occasion, neighbors received liberal presents of pork, sausages, headcheese, or other products of the pig. The farmer who raised the heaviest porker remained the object of gossip over apple toddy for several days. As salting, pickling, smoking or drying were the only available means of preservation, most cellars regularly stored barrels of salted, pickled or smoked pork as well as smoked beef.
Besides swine, beef cattle, sheep, chickens and turkeys, geese, ducks, pigeons and wild game supplied meat for the table. Clearing the forest cover for agriculture, however, rapidly diminished some game species, particularly deer, which became increasingly scarce near long-settled farmlands and villages.
We conclude by offering the proclamation of Governor William Livingston, who declared Thursday, December 9, 1779, as a day of Thanksgiving for the citizens of New Jersey, and especially expressing gratitude for the alliance with France:
CHATHAM, NOVEMBER 16.
By His Excellency
WILLIAM LIVINGSTON, Esq;
Governor, Captain, General and Commander-in-Chief in and over the State of New-Jersey, said Territories thereunto belonging. Chancellor and Ordinary in the Same.
CHATHAM, NOVEMBER 16.
A PROCLAMATION.
WHEREAS the honorable Congress, by their resolution of the twentieth day of October last, reciting, “That it becomes us humbly to approach the throne of Almighty God, with gratitude and praise, for the wonders which His goodness has wrought in conducting our forefathers to this Western world; for his protection to them and to their posterity, amid difficulties and dangers; for raising us their children from deep distress to be numbered among the nations of the earth; and for arming the hands of just and mighty princes in our deliverance; and, especially, for that he hath been pleased to grant us the enjoyment of health, and so to order the revolving seasons, that the earth hath produced her increase in abundance, blessing the labour of the husbandman, and spreading plenty through the land; that he hath prospered our arms and those of the ally; been a shield to our troops in the hour of danger, pointed their swords to victory, and led them in triumph over the bulwarks of the foe; that he hath gone with those who went into the wilderness against the savage tribes; that he hath stayed the hand of the spoiler, and turned back his meditated destruction; that he hath prospered our commerce, and given success to those who fought the enemy on the face of the deep; and, above all, that he hath diffused the glorious light of the gospel, whereby, through the merits of our gracious Redeemer we may become the heirs of his eternal glory;” did recommend it to the several States to appoint Thursday the ninth day of December next, to be observed as a day of public thanksgiving and praise;—and did further recommend, that, together with devout thanksgiving, may be joined in humble supplication for the continuance of his favor and protection to these United States; to beseech him that he would be graciously pleased to influence our public councils, and bless them with wisdom from on high, with unanimity, firmness, and success; that he would go forth with our hosts, and crown our arms with victory; that he would grant to his church the plentiful effusions of divine grace, and pour out his holy spirit on all ministers of the gospel; that he would bless and prosper the means of education, and spread the light of Christian knowledge through the farthest comers cf the earth; that he would smile upon the labors of his people and cause the earth to bring forth her fruits in abundance, that we may with gratitude and gladness enjoy them; that he would take into his holy protection our illustrious Ally, give him victory over his enemies, and render him signally great, as the father of his people, and the protector of the rights of mankind; that he would be graciously pleased to turn the hearts of our enemies, and to dispense the blessings of peace to contending nations; that he would in mercy look down upon us, pardon all our sins, and receive us into his favor; and, finally, that he would establish the Independence of these United States upon the basis of religion and virtue, and support and protect them in the enjoyment of peace, liberty and safety.
I HAVE therefore thought fit, by and with the advice of the honorable Privy Council of this State, to appoint THURSDAY the said ninth day of DECEMBER next, to be set, apart and observed throughout this State, as a day of public THANKSGIVING and PEACE, for the purposes in the above resolution set forth; whereof all the inhabitants of this State are hereby required to take notice and govern themselves accordingly. And, I DO hereby recommend it to the ministers of the gospel of every denomination in this State, to perform divine service, and to the people committed to their charge to attend on public worship on that day, and to abstain from all servile labor, and all recreation inconsistent with the solemnity of the festival.
GIVEN under my hand and seal at arms, in Mount-Holly, the ninth day of November, in the year of our Lord One thousand seven hundred and seventy-nine, and m the fourth year of the independence of America.
WIL. LIVINGSTON.
By His Excellency’s Command,
BOWES REED, Sec’ry.
GOD SAVE THE PEOPLE.
